Chinatown, Manhattan

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A Chinese lion helps usher in the 2006 Chinese New Year

Cooks at a Mott Street restaurant taking a break outside a side entrance on Mosco Street

Meditation in a Chinatown plaza

Chinatown is home to many groceries

The Chinatown neighborhood of Manhattan — (simplified Chinese: 纽约华埠; traditional Chinese: 紐約華埠; pinyin: Niŭ yuē Huá Bù) a borough of New York City — is an ethnic enclave with a large population of Chinese immigrants, similar to Chinatown districts in other American cities. It is the second most populous Chinatown in the Western Hemisphere (after San Francisco's Chinatown), and third in area size (San Francisco, Vancouver).^[1] ^[2]^{[dubious – discuss]}

[edit] Location

Until the 1970s, the traditional borders of Chinatown were:

Canal Street in the North (bordering Little Italy)
The Bowery in the East (bordering the Lower East Side)
Worth Street in the South
Baxter Street in the West

Within this area, most tourists only see the older center of Chinatown, the intersections of Canal Street with Mott and Mulberry streets; the intersection of Pell and Doyers Streets. During the 1980s, Chinatown went through a period of expansion that made it the largest Chinese community in the Western Hemisphere. Its current borders are as follows:^{[citation needed]}

Hester Street in the North, West of The Bowery (bordering the Little Italy and SoHo sections of NYC)
Broadway in the West (encroaching the TriBeCa sections of NYC)
Worth Street in the South, East of Broadway (encroaching the City Hall area)
The Bowery in the East
The Stretch of The Bowery from Hester to Delancey.
The Stretch of East Broadway from The Bowery to near Rutgers.

It is an area of approximately 0.28 statute miles in the North-South direction of its longest contiguous area(Hester to Worth) by 0.29 statute miles in the East-West direction of its widest contiguous area(Broadway to The Bowery) of Manhattan island.^{[citation needed]} Total land area: about 0.36 (a little over one-third) statute square miles,^{[citation needed]} or roughly half the size of the European nation of Monaco.

[edit] History

[edit] Ah Ken and early Chinese immigration

Main article: Ah Ken

Although Quimbo Appo is claimed to have arrived in the area during the 1840s, the first man credited to permanently immigrate to Chinatown was Ah Ken, a Cantonese businessman, who eventually founded a successful cigar store on Park Row. ^[3] ^[4] ^[5] ^[6] ^[7] ^[8] ^[9] ^[10] ^[11] He first arrived in New York around 1858 where he was "probably one of those Chinese mentioned in gossip of the sixties as peddling 'awful' cigars at three cents apiece from little stands along the City Hall park fence - offering a paper spill and a tiny oil lamp as a lighter" according to author Alvin Harlow in Old Bowery Days: The Chronicles of a Famous Street (1931). ^[5]

Later immigrants would similarly find work as "cigar men" or carrying billboards and Ah Ken's particular success encouraged cigar makers William Longford, John Occoo and John Ava to also ply their trade in Chinatown eventually forming a monopoly on the cigar trade. ^[12] It has been speculated that he may have been Ah Kam who kept a small boarding house on lower Mott Street and rented out bunks to the first Chinese immigrants to arrive in Chinatown. It was with the profits he earned as a landlord, earning an average of $100 a month, that he was able to open his Park Row smoke shop around which modern-day Chinatown would grow. ^[3] ^[7] ^[13] ^[14] ^[15] ^[16]

[edit] Chinese exclusion period

The building at 782 Eighth Avenue, ca. 1915, where Elsie Sigel's body was found.

Faced with increasing discrimination and new laws which prevented participation in many occupations on the West Coast, some Chinese immigrants moved to the East Coast cities in search of employment. Early businesses in these cities included hand laundries and restaurants. Chinatown started on Mott Street, Park, Pell and Doyers streets, east of the notorious Five Points district. By 1870, there was a Chinese population of 200. By the time the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882 was passed, the population was up to 2,000 residents. By 1900, there were 7,000 Chinese residents, but fewer than 200 Chinese women.

The early days of Chinatown were dominated by Chinese "tongs" (now sometimes rendered neutrally as "associations"), which were a mixture of clan associations, landsman's associations, political alliances (Kuomintang (Nationalists) vs Communist Party of China) and (more secretly) crime syndicates. The associations started to give protection from harassment due to anti-Chinese racism. Each of these associations was aligned with a street gang. The associations were a source of assistance to new immigrants - giving out loans, aiding in starting business, and so forth.

The associations formed a governing body named the Chinese Consolidated Benevolent Association（中華公所). Though this body was meant to foster relations between the Tongs, open warfare periodically flared between the On Leong (安良) and Hip Sing (協勝) tongs. Much of the Chinese gang warfare took place on Doyers street. Gangs like the Ghost Shadows (鬼影) and Flying Dragons (飛龍) were prevalent until the 1980s.

The only park in Chinatown, Columbus Park, was built on what was once the center of the infamous Five Points neighborhood of New York. During the 19th century, this was the most dangerous slum area of immigrant New York (as portrayed in the movie Gangs of New York).

[edit] Post-immigration reform

In the years after the United States enacted the Immigration and Nationality Act of 1965, allowing many more immigrants from Asia into the country, the population of Chinatown exploded. Geographically, much of the growth was to neighborhoods to the north.

In the 1990s, Chinese people began to move into some parts of the western Lower East Side, which 50 years earlier was populated by Eastern European Jews and 20 years earlier was occupied by Hispanics. There are today only a few remnants of Jewish heritage left on the Lower East Side, such as the famous Katz's Deli and a number of synagogues and other old religious establishments.

Chinatown was adversely affected by the September 11, 2001 attacks. Being so physically close to Ground Zero, tourism and business has been very slow to return to the area. Part of the reason was the New York City Police Department closure of Park Row - one of two major roads linking the Financial Center with Chinatown. A lawsuit is pending before the State Superior Court regarding this action.

Currently, the raising prices of Manhattan real estate and rents are also affecting Chinatown and it seems that the neighborhood is shrinking to its original borders. New and poorer immigrants cannot afford their rents and a process of relocation to Queens has started, and apartments particularly in the Lower East Side and Little Italy that used to be home for new Chinese immigrants are being bought and renovated by well-to-do Americans^[who?], including Chinese-Americans. Many of the displaced have also left for the greener pastures of larger Chinatowns like San Francisco's, which is currently experiencing revitalized growth and prosperity after nearly two decades of decline.^{[citation needed]}

[edit] Economy

A shop selling traditional herbal medicines

Chinese green-grocers and fishmongers are clustered around Mott Street, Mulberry Street, Canal Street (by Baxter Street) and all along East Broadway (especially by Catherine Street). The Chinese jewelry shop district is on Canal Street between Mott and Bowery. Due to the high savings rate among Chinese, there are many Asian and American banks in the neighborhood. Canal Street, west of Broadway (especially on the North side), is filled with Chinese street vendors selling imitation perfumes, watches, and hand-bags, which are largely purchased by tourists and non-Chinese. This section of Canal Street was previously the home of warehouse stores selling surplus/salvage electronics and hardware.

Besides the more than 200 Chinese restaurants in the area for employment, there are still some factories. The proximity of the fashion industry has kept some garment work in the local area though most of the garment industry has moved to China.^{[citation needed]} The local garment industry now concentrates on quick production in small volumes and piece-work (paid by the piece) which is generally done at the worker's home. Much of the population growth is due to immigration. As previous generations of immigrants gain language and education skills, they tend to move to better housing and job prospects that are available in the suburbs and outer boroughs of New York.

[edit] Demographics

Another view of Chinatown

Unlike most other urban Chinatowns, Manhattan's Chinatown is both a residential area as well as commercial area. Most population estimates are in the range of 90,000 to 100,000 residents. It is difficult to get an exact count, as neighborhood participation in the U.S. Census is thought to be low due to language barriers, as well as large-scale illegal immigration.

Until the 1960s, the majority of the Chinese population in Chinatown emigrated from Guangdong province and Hong Kong, thus they were native speakers of Cantonese, especially the Guangzhou and Taishan dialects. A minority of Hakka was also represented. Mandarin was rarely spoken by residents even well into the 1980s. Most recent immigrants are from Mainland China, and hence speak Mandarin, the official spoken language of China. A significant portion are from Fuzhou, Fujian province, so they are native speakers of the Fuzhou dialect of Min. Most Fuzhou immigrants are illegal immigrants while most of the Cantonese immigrants are legal immigrants in Manhattan's Chinatown.^[17] With the coming of illegal Fuzhou immigrants during the 1990s, there is now a Fuzhou Community in the eastern portion of Manhattan's Chinatown which started on East Broadway and later on emerging onto other streets in the eastern portion of Manhattan's Chinatown, however their influx has slowed down a lot since then and now the Fuzhou population is almost as dominant as the Cantonese population in Manhattan's Chinatown.^[18] After the Fuzhou influx slowed down, their influx then later on shifted over to Brooklyn's Chinatown on 8th avenue which was traditionally an almost completely Cantonese community like all Chinatowns and now the Fuzhou influx is increasing a lot more quickly in Brooklyn's Chinatown than in Manhattan's Chinatown. With Brooklyn's Chinatown much more smaller size than in Manhattan's Chinatown, the Fuzhou influx has had a lot more better success than in Manhattan's Chinatown in overpopulating the Cantonese population in Brooklyn's Chinatown and it is now on its way of surpassing the already Fuzhou population in Manhattan's Chinatown and it is more than likely expected that Brooklyn's Chinatown will become a much more established and bigger Fuzhou Community than the one in the eastern portion of Manhattan's Chinatown.^[19]

Although Mandarin is spoken as a native language among only ten percent of Chinese speakers in NYC's Chinatown, it is used as a secondary dialect among the greatest number of them and is on its way to replace Cantonese as their lingua franca.^[20] Although Min Chinese is spoken natively by a third of the Chinese population in the city, it is not used as a lingua franca because speakers of other dialect groups do not learn Min.^[20]

[edit] Buildings

The Confucius Plaza 44-story subsidized housing cooperative, above typical Chinatown housing stock

[edit] Housing

The housing stock of Chinatown is still mostly composed of cramped tenement buildings, some of which are over 100 years old. It is still common in such buildings to have bathrooms in the hallways, to be shared among multiple apartments.

A federally subsidized housing project, named Confucius Plaza, was completed on the corner of Bowery and Division streets in 1976. This 44-story residential tower block gave much needed new housing stock to thousands of residents. The building also housed a new public grade school, P.S. 124 (or Yung Wing Elementary). Since new housing is normally non-existent in Chinatown, many apartments in the building were acquired by wealthy individuals through under-the-table dealings, even though the building was built as affordable housing.

[edit] Landmarks

For much of Chinatown's history, there were few unique architectural features to announce to visitors that they had arrived in the neighborhood (other than the language of the shop signs). In 1962, at Chatham Square the Lt. Benjamin Ralph Kimlau Memorial archway was erected in memorial of the Chinese-Americans who died in World War II. This memorial, which bears calligraphy by the great Yu Youren 于右任 (1879—1964), is mostly ignored by the residents due to its poor location on a busy car thoroughfare with little pedestrian traffic. A statue of Lin Zexu, also known as Commissioner Lin, a Fuzhou-based Chinese official who opposed the opium trade, is also located at the square; it faces uptown along East Broadway, now home to the bustling Fuzhou neighborhood and known locally as Fuzhou Street (Fúzhóu jiē 福州街). In the 1970s, New York Telephone, then the local phone company started capping the street phone booths with pagoda-like decorations. In 1976, the statue of Confucius in front of Confucius Plaza became a common meeting place. In the 1980s, banks which opened new branches and others which were renovating started to use Chinese traditional styles for their building facades. The Church of the Transfiguration, a national historic site built in 1815, stands of Mott Street.

[edit] Street names in Chinese

Baxter Street - 巴士特街

Allen Street - 亞倫街
Baxter Street - 巴士特街
Bayard Street - 擺也街
Bowery - 包厘
Broadway - 百老匯
Broome Street - 布隆街
Canal Street - 堅尼街
Catherine Street - 加薩林街
Centre Street - 中央街
Chambers Street - 錢伯斯街
Chatham Square - 且林士果
Chrystie Street - 企李士提街
Delancey Street - 地蘭西街
Division Street - 地葳臣街
Doyers Street - 宰也街
East Broadway (Little Fuzhou) - 東百老匯 (小福州)

Eldridge Street - 愛烈治街
Elizabeth Street - 伊利沙白街
Grand Street - 格蘭街
Henry Street - 軒利街
Hester Street - 喜士打街
Madison Street - 麥地遜街
Market Street - 市場街
Mosco Street - 莫斯科街
Mott Street - 勿街
Mulberry Street - 茂比利街
Orchard Street - 柯察街
Park Row - 柏路
Pell Street - 披露街
Pike Street - 派克街
Worth Street - 窩夫街^[21]

^[22]

[edit] Satellite Chinatowns

Main articles: Flushing, Queens and Sunset Park, Brooklyn

Other New York City area Chinese communities have been settled over the years, including that of Flushing in Queens, which in recent years has actually surpassed the community in Lower Manhattan. Another community is located in Sunset Park in Brooklyn, particularly along 8th Avenue from 40th to 65th Streets. New York's newest Chinatown has recently sprung up on Avenue U in the Homecrest section of Brooklyn. Outside of New York City proper, a growing suburban Chinatown is developing in Edison, New Jersey, which lies 30 miles (48 km) to the southwest.

While the composition of these satellite Chinatowns is as varied as the original, the political turmoils in the Manhattan Chinatown (Tongs vs. Republic of China loyalists vs. People's Republic of China loyalists vs. Americanized) has led to some factionalization in the other satellites. The Flushing Chinatown, for example, was spearheaded by many Chinese fleeing the Communist retaking of Hong Kong in 1997 as well as Taiwanese who used their considerable capital to buy out land from the former residents. The Brooklyn Chinatown located in Sunset Park however, is mostly immigrant and populated by both Cantonese and Fukienese newcomers to America, however the Fukienese is on its way of turning the Chinese Community into the new, more established, and bigger Fuzhou community than the one in the eastern portion of Manhattan's Chinatown.^[19] More culturally assimilated Chinese have moved outside these neighborhoods into more white or Hispanic neighborhoods in the city while others move to the suburbs outright.

[edit] See also

Shuang Wen School - a dual-language elementary school on the Lower East Side.
Chinatown
Chinatowns in North America
Chinese Hand Laundry Alliance

[edit] References

^ Brissenden, Constance (2008). Top 10 Vancouver & Victoria. DK Eyewitness Travel. ISBN 978-0-75663-252-6.
^ "Greater Vancouver Parks Website". http://www.greatervancouverparks.com/Chinatown01.html. Retrieved on 2008-08-23.
^ ^a ^b Moss, Frank. The American Metropolis from Knickerboxer Days to the Present Time. London: The Authors' Syndicate, 1897. (pg. 403)
^ Asbury, Herbert. The Gangs of New York: An Informal History of the New York Underworld. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1928. (pg. 278-279) ISBN 1-56025-275-8
^ ^a ^b Harlow, Alvin F. Old Bowery Days: The Chronicles of a Famous Street. New York and London: D. Appleton & Company, 1931. (pg. 392)
^ Worden, Helen. The Real New York: A Guide for the Adventurous Shopper, the Exploratory Eater and the Know-it-all Sightseer who Ain't Seen Nothin' Yet. Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1932. (pg. 140)
^ ^a ^b Hemp, William H. New York Enclaves. New York: Clarkson M. Potter, 1975. (pg. 6) ISBN 0-517-51999-2
^ Wong, Bernard. Patronage, Brokerage, Entrepreneurship, and the Chinese Community of New York. New York: AMS Press, 1988. (pg. 31) ISBN 0-404-19416-8
^ Lin, Jan. Reconstructing Chinatown: Ethnic Enclave, Global Change. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 1998. (pg. 30-31) ISBN 0-8166-2905-6
^ Taylor, B. Kim. The Great New York City Trivia & Fact Book. Nashville: Cumberland House Publishing, 1998. (pg. 20) ISBN 1-888952-77-6
^ Ostrow, Daniel. Manhattan's Chinatown. Charleston, South Carolina: Arcadia Publishing, 2008. (pg. 9) ISBN 0-7385-5517-7
^ Tchen, John Kuo Wei. New York Before Chinatown: Orientalism and the Shaping of American Culture, 1776-1882. Baltimore: John Hopkins University Press, 2001. (pg. 82-83) ISBN 0-8018-6794-0
^ Federal Writers' Project. New York City: Vol 1, New York City Guide. Vol. I. American Guide Series. New York: Random House, 1939. (pg. 104)
^ Marcuse, Maxwell F. This Was New York!: A Nostalgic Picture of Gotham in the Gaslight Era. New York: LIM Press, 1969. (pg. 41)
^ Chen, Jack. The Chinese of America. New York: Harper & Row, 1980. (pg. 258) ISBN 0-06-250140-2
^ Hall, Bruce Edward. Tea That Burns: A Family Memoir of Chinatown. New York: Simon and Schuster, 2002. (pg. 37) ISBN 0-7432-3659-9
^ http://www.workingimmigrants.com/2006/03/smuggling_of_chinese_workers_i_1.html
^ http://nychinatown.org/ebway.html
^ ^a ^b http://www.worldjournal.com/english/wj-eng_news.php?nt_seq_id=1341407&sc_seq_id=1930
^ ^a ^b García, Ofelia; Fishman, Joshua A. (2002). The Multilingual Apple: Languages in New York City. Walter de Gruyter. ISBN 311017281X.
^ Historic Pictures of Chinatown
^ A Journey Through Chinatown

[edit] Further reading

"New York's First Chinaman". Atlanta Constitution. 22 Sep 1896
Crouse, Russel. Murder Won't Out. New York: Doubleday, Doran & Company, 1932.
Dunshee, Kenneth Holcomb. As You Pass By. New York: Hastings House, 1952.
Ramati, Raquel. How to Save Your Own Street. Garden City, Doubleday and Co., 1981. ISBN 0-385-14814-3