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Fish and chips

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Fish and chips, photographed Norfolk, UK
A more upmarket version of the classical dish, photographed Karachi, Pakistan

Fish and chips (sometimes written "fish 'n' chips") is a popular take-away food which originated in the United Kingdom. It consists of deep-fried fish (traditionally cod, haddock or flounder) in batter or breadcrumbs with deep-fried chipped (slab-cut) potatoes.

Popular tradition associates the dish with the United Kingdom; and fish and chips remains very popular in the United Kingdom and in areas colonised by people from the UK in the 19th century, such as Australia, New Zealand and parts of North America.

Contents

[edit] History

Service counter in an Irish fish-and-chip shop
Fish and chips in a kebab shop in Helsinki, Finland.

In the United Kingdom, fish and chips became a cheap food popular among the working classes with the rapid development of trawl fishing in the North Sea in the second half of the nineteenth century.[1]

Deep-fried "chips" (slices or pieces of potato) as a dish, may have first appeared in Britain in about the same period: the OED notes as its earliest usage of "chips" in this sense the mention in Dickens' A Tale of Two Cities (published in 1859): "Husky chips of potatoes, fried with some reluctant drops of oil". (Note that Belgian tradition, as recorded in a manuscript of 1781, dates the frying of potatoes carved into the shape of fish back at least as far as 1680.)[2]

The modern fish-and-chip shop ("chippy" in modern British slang[3]) originated in the United Kingdom, although outlets selling fried food occurred commonly throughout Europe. According to one story, fried-potato shops spreading south from Scotland merged with fried-fish shops spreading from southern England.[citation needed] Early fish-and-chip shops had only very basic facilities. Usually these consisted principally of a large cauldron of cooking-fat, heated by a coal fire. Insanitary by modern standards, such establishments also emitted a smell associated with frying, which led to the authorities classifying fish-and-chip supply as an "offensive trade",[citation needed] a stigma retained until the interwar period. The industry overcame this reputation because during World War II fish and chips remained one of the few foods in the United Kingdom not subject to rationing.[4]

In the United Kingdom and Ireland, the Fish Labelling Regulations 2003 [5] enact directive 2065/2001/EC and generally means that "fish" must be sold with the particular species named; so "cod and chips" not "fish and chips". The Food Standards Agency guidance excludes caterers from this;[6] but several local Trading Standards authorities and others do say it cannot be sold merely as "fish and chips".[7][8][9]

[edit] England

A blue plaque marking the first chip shop in Britain, in Oldham, Lancashire

The dish became popular in wider circles in London and South East England in the middle of the 19th century (Charles Dickens mentions a "fried fish warehouse" in Oliver Twist, first published in 1838) whilst in the north of England a trade in deep-fried "chipped" potatoes developed. The first chip shop stood on the present site of Oldham's Tommyfield Market.[10] It remains unclear exactly when and where these two trades combined to become the fish-and-chip shop industry we know today. Joseph Malin opened the first recorded combined fish-and-chip shop in London in 1860 or in 1865, while a Mr Lees pioneered the concept in the North of England in Mossley, Lancashire in 1863.[11]

The concept of a "Fish Restaurant" was introduced by Samuel Isaacs [born 1856 in Whitechapel, London; died 1939 in Brighton, Sussex)] who ran a thriving wholesale and retail fish business throughout London and the South of England in the latter part of the 1800s. Isaacs' first restaurant opened in London in 1896 serving fish & chips, bread & butter and tea for nine pence, and its popularity ensured a rapid expansion of the chain. The restaurants were carpeted, had waited service, table cloths, flowers, china and cutlery, and made the trappings of upmarket dining affordable to the working classes for the first time. They were located in Tottenham Court Road, St. Pancras, The Strand, Hoxton, Shoreditch, Brixton and other London districts, as well as Clacton, Brighton, Ramsgate, Margate and other seaside resorts in southern England. Menus were expanded in the early 1900s to include meat dishes and other variations as their popularity grew to a total of thirty restaurants. Sam Isaacs' trademark was the phrase "This is the Plaice" combined with a picture of the punned fish in question. A glimpse of some original wall advertising in the old Brighton restaurant can be seen in the background of Norman Wisdom's 1955 film "One Good Turn", just as Norman/Pitkin arrives at the seafront.[12]

[edit] Scotland

Dundee City Council claims that "...in the 1870s, that glory of British gastronomy — the chip — was first sold by Belgian immigrant Edward De Gernier in the city’s Greenmarket."[13]

Scotland made the transition to polystyrene containers later than some places.[14]

In Edinburgh a combination of Gold Star brown sauce and water or malt vinegar, known either simply as "sauce", or more specifically as "chippie sauce", has great popularity.[15]

[edit] Composition

[edit] Cooking

Frying range

Traditional frying uses beef dripping or lard; however, vegetable oils, such as peanut oil (used due to its relatively high smoke-point) now predominate. A minority of vendors in the north of England and Scotland still use dripping or lard, as it imparts a different flavour to the dish, but it has the side-effect of making the fried chips unsuitable for vegetarians and for adherents of certain faiths. Lard continues in use in some other cases in the UK, especially in Living Industrial History Museums, such as the Black Country Living Museum.

In the UK, waste fat from fish and chip shops has become a useful source of biodiesel.[16]

[edit] Potatoes

Lincolnshire White[citation needed] or Maris Piper potatoes produce good chips,[17]

[edit] Thickness

Fish and chips served with coleslaw and lemon.

American-style "french fries" typically have a slimmer shape than their British counterpart chips; thicker "fries" sometimes appear on US menus as "steak fries". Thicker slabs of potato result in a lower fat content per portion than with French fries. Cooking fat penetrates a relatively shallow depth into the potato during cooking, thus the surface area reflects the fat content proportionally. Thick chips have a smaller surface area per unit weight than French fries and thus absorb less oil per weight of potato. Chips also require a somewhat longer cooking time than fries.

The British usually serve thicker slabs of potato than the "french fries" popularised by major multinational U.S. hamburger chains. In their homes or in non-chain restaurants, people in or from the U.S. may eat a thicker type of chip, called "home fries" or "steak fries".[18][19]

Despite the differences in terminology, the combination of strips of potato flesh served hot with fish still has the name "fish and chips" in most U.S. restaurants which serve the dish, but a few U.S. restaurants will offer "crisps" instead of "fries" when a consumer orders "fish and chips".[20][21]

[edit] Batter

UK chippies sometimes use beer or milk batter, where they substitute for water. The carbon dioxide in the beer lends a lighter texture to the batter, and also an orange colour. A simple batter might consist of a 2:3 ratio of flour to beer by volume. The type of beer makes the batter taste different: some prefer lager[22][23] whereas other use stout and bitter. In all cases, the alcohol itself is cooked off, so little or none remains in the finished product.

[edit] Choice of fish

In Britain, haddock and cod appear most commonly as the fish used for fish and chips,[24] but vendors also sell many other kinds of fish, especially other white fish, such as pollock or coley; plaice; skate; and huss or rock salmon (a term covering several species of now endangered dogfish and similar fish). In some areas of southwestern and northern England, and throughout the vast majority of Scotland, haddock predominates. Indeed, in one part of West Yorkshire, the area between Bradford, Halifax and Keighley known as the "Haddock Triangle", very few shops offer cod on their menu. In Grimsby and the surrounding area, Haddock is preferred so much that the very word Cod is virtually swearing. In Northern Ireland, cod, plaice or whiting appear most commonly in "fish suppers". Suppliers in Devon and Cornwall regularly offer pollock and coley as cheap alternatives to haddock due to their regular availability in a common catch. As a cheap, nutritious, savoury and common alternative to a whole piece of fish, fish-and-chips shops around the UK supply small battered rissoles of compressed cod roe.

Australians prefer reef-cod (a different variety than that used in the United Kingdom) or flake, a type of shark meat, in their fish and chips, although having shark in some places may be illegal, due to some members of the species being endangered.[citation needed]. In recent years, farmed basa imported from Vietnam has also become common in Australian fish and chip shops. Actor Ted Danson criticized all of Britain's fish and chips, saying that they used meat from the rare and endangered spiny dogfish. He also claimed that spiny dogfish used to be a plentiful world species, but now, due to overfishing, they are very rare and on the endangered species list.[25]

[edit] Accompaniments

In the United Kingdom, free salt and vinegar is traditionally sprinkled over fish and chips at the time it is served.[24] Suppliers may use malt vinegar or onion vinegar (the vinegar used for pickling onions). A cheaper product called "non-brewed condiment" (actually a solution of acetic acid in water with caramel colour) substitutes for genuine malt vinegar in many fish-and-chip shops.

[edit] Vendors

Fish and chip stalls in West Bay, Dorset, England

In the United Kingdom and in Australia and North America fish-and-chips usually sell through independent restaurants and take-aways. Outlets range from small affairs to chain restaurants. In the United Kingdom, punning names for the shops, such as "The Batter Plaice", "Assault and Battery", "The Codfather", "Sir Crickets Fish n' Chips" and "The Frying Scotsman" often occur.[26] Fish-and-chip outlets sell roughly 25% of all the white fish consumed in the United Kingdom, and 10% of all potatoes.

A variety of fish and chips with fried shrimp, hushpuppies and coleslaw, as commonly served in North America

The existence of numerous competitions and awards for "best fish-and-chip shop"[27][28] testifies to the recognised status of this type of outlet in popular culture.[29]

Fish-and-chip shops traditionally wrapped their product in an inner layer of white paper (for hygiene) and an outer layer of newspaper or blank newsprint (for insulation and to absorb grease), though nowadays the use of newspaper has largely ceased on grounds of hygiene, and establishments often use food-quality wrapping paper instead— occasionally printed on the outside to emulate newspaper. In Northern Ireland, fish and chip meals once came wrapped solely with a couple of layers of newspaper, but concerns over ink poisoning (especially relating to the use of lead type in newspaper production) meant the phasing out of this practice. Printing industry workers, however, state that modern newspaper-inks pose no such health risk.[30]

Fish-and-chip shops typically offer other hot fast food which customers may eat in place of the traditional battered fish.

[edit] Cultural impact

The long-standing Roman Catholic tradition of not eating meat other than fish on Fridays — especially during Lent — and of substituting fish for other types of meat on that day — continues to influence habits even in predominantly Protestant, semi-secular and secular societies. Friday night remains a traditional occasion for patronising fish-and-chip shops; and many cafeterias and similar establishments, while varying their menus on other days of the week, habitually offer fish and chips every Friday.[31]

[edit] See also

[edit] Footnotes

  1. ^ "Fish and chips - A great British tradition". http://web.archive.org/web/20080116221706/http://www.niagara.co.uk/fish_and_chips.htm. Retrieved on 2009-06-22. 
  2. ^ "La Frite est-elle belge?". http://www.frites.be/v4/index.cfm?context=article&ContentID=354. Retrieved on 2007-10-22. "According to Jo Gérard, our people already cooked chips prior to 1680. The historian offers as a proof a family manuscript dating from 1781 (Culinary curiosities in the Belgian Netherlands, signed by his great-great-uncle Joseph Gérard)" 
  3. ^ "Chippy smells of chips complaint". BBC News. 2006-11-07. http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/west_yorkshire/6126476.stm. Retrieved on 2009-06-22. 
  4. ^ "Resources for Learning, Scotland: Rationing". Rls.org.uk. 1998-01-05. http://www.rls.org.uk/database/record.php?usi=000-000-001-467-L. Retrieved on 2009-06-22. 
  5. ^ Fish Labelling Regulations (England) 2003, The Stationery Office, 2003, http://www.opsi.gov.uk/si/si2003/20030461.htm, retrieved on 2009-04-04  (equivalent similary-named legislation applies in other countries of the UK and in Ireland)
  6. ^ Guidance Notes for England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland, Office of Public Sector Information, 2003, http://www.food.gov.uk/multimedia/pdfs/fish_lab_reg2003gn.pdf, retrieved on 2009-04-04  (Section A.2)
  7. ^ Food Labelling For Catering Establishments, Blackpool Council, http://www.blackpool.gov.uk/NR/rdonlyres/9DA031F1-E2EA-4198-8CC6-23644A89D6B1/0/FOODLABELLINGFORCATERINGESTABLISHMENTS.pdf, retrieved on 2009-04-04 
  8. ^ Business Advice Fact Sheet, Norfolk County Council, http://www.norfolk.gov.uk/consumption/groups/public/documents/general_resources/NCC048357.pdf, retrieved on 2009-04-04 
  9. ^ Labelling & Pricing, Nationwide Caterers Association, http://www.ncass.org.uk/default.aspx?id=1039, retrieved on 2009-04-04 
  10. ^ Chaloner, W. H.; Henderson, W. O. (1990). Industry and Innovation: Selected Essays. Taylor & Francis. ISBN 0714633356. 
  11. ^ Historic uk - the heritage accommodation guide. "Tradition Historic UK, Fish and Chips". Historic-uk.com. http://www.historic-uk.com/CultureUK/FishandChips.htm. Retrieved on 2009-06-22. 
  12. ^ England Eats Out by John Burnett - Published by Pearson Education, 2004 ISBN 0582472660
  13. ^ "Dundee Fact File". Dundee City Council. http://www.dundeecity.gov.uk/departments/fact.htm. Retrieved on 20 March 2007. 
  14. ^ "Chippies and Cafes". scotsitalian.com. http://web.archive.org/web/20070616064241/www.scotsitalian.com/chippiescafe.htm. Retrieved on 2009-06-22. 
  15. ^ SiteWise - Content Management System - www.pureenergymultimedia.com/sitewise/. "Did You Know?". Federation of Fish Friers. http://www.federationoffishfriers.co.uk/pages/81.htm. Retrieved on 2009-06-22. 
  16. ^ ""German Biodiesel Firm To Use Chip Fat"". Planetark.com. 2008-03-19. http://www.planetark.com/dailynewsstory.cfm/newsid/47581/story.htm. Retrieved on 2009-06-22. 
  17. ^ Blumenthal, Heston (2002-06-22). "Good fry day". The Guardian. http://www.guardian.co.uk/theguardian/2002/jun/22/weekend7.weekend10. Retrieved on 2008-07-29. "The only other thing to say about cooking chips is that the potato you use makes a huge difference. For me, nothing can beat the Golden Wonder potato, but it is pretty difficult to obtain; Maris Piper and King Edwards work well, too." 
  18. ^ "Online recipes". Foodnetwork.com. http://www.foodnetwork.com/food/recipes/recipe/0,,FOOD_9936_31517,00.html. Retrieved on 2009-06-22. 
  19. ^ "More online recipes". Foodnetwork.com. http://www.foodnetwork.com/food/recipes/recipe/0,,FOOD_9936_36305,00.html. Retrieved on 2009-06-22. 
  20. ^ Townsend, Bob (2005-02-09). "Neighborhood Nosh". Atlanta Journal. http://www.oterrills.com/ajc_review.htm. Retrieved on 2007-01-04. 
  21. ^ "Whitey's Fish Camp - Restaurant". Menu. Whitey's Fish Camp. http://www.whiteysfishcamp.com/index.htm. Retrieved on 2008-05-27. 
  22. ^ "Deep fried fish in beer". http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/database/deepfriedfishinbeerb_67776.shtml. Retrieved on 2009-03-23. 
  23. ^ "Gurnard in beer batter". 2008-01-26. http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/food-and-drink/recipes/gurnard-in-beer-batter-772989.html. Retrieved on 2009-03-23. 
  24. ^ a b Alan Masterson, tictoc design. ""Seafish. On Plate. Fish & chips" (UK Sea Fish Industry Authority website)". Seafish.org. http://www.seafish.org/plate/fishandchips.asp. Retrieved on 2009-06-22. 
  25. ^ Gray, Louise (16 September 2008), "Actor Ted Danson blames fish and chips for shark extinction threat", The Daily Telegraph, http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/2964566/A.html, retrieved on 2009-04-16 
  26. ^ Swillingham, Guy (2005). Shop Horror. London: Fourth Estate. ISBN 0-00-719813-2. 
  27. ^ "The Fish & Chip Shop of the Year Competition". Seafish. http://www.seafish.org/plate/fishandchips.asp?p=gf182. Retrieved on 2007-01-04. 
  28. ^ "Frier's Quality Award". Seafish. http://www.seafish.org/plate/fishandchips.asp?p=gf502. Retrieved on 2007-01-04. 
  29. ^ "Couple scoop best chip shop award". BBC News. 2006. http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/4670504.stm. Retrieved on 2007-01-04. 
  30. ^ Huber Group (September 2003). "Newspaper inks and the environment" (PDF). http://www.mhm.de/ti/ZD49102E.pdf. Retrieved on 2007-10-27. 
  31. ^ "Icons of England". Icons.org.uk. http://www.icons.org.uk/theicons/collection/fish-and-chips/features/meet-the-owners-the-golden-fish-bar. Retrieved on 2009-06-22. 

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